Ghana, long regarded as a hub for secondhand clothing imports, is grappling with an escalating environmental crisis. The bustling Kantamanto market in Accra, one of the largest resale hubs for used garments in Africa, has once again come under scrutiny following a devastating fire. This incident has reignited concerns about the nation’s overwhelming reliance on imported secondhand clothing, a trade that fuels both economic activity and environmental degradation. As discarded fast fashion items continue to flood the country, Ghana faces mounting textile waste, pollution, and a struggling local manufacturing industry, highlighting the urgent need for sustainable reforms.
For decades, Ghana has been a major destination for the global secondhand clothing trade, with shipments arriving primarily from Europe and North America. While this market provides affordable clothing for millions and sustains thousands of traders, it also poses a significant environmental challenge. Reports indicate that nearly 40% of imported clothing is unsellable, often ending up in landfills, rivers, and streets, exacerbating the country’s waste management crisis. Kantamanto’s fire has only amplified the debate over whether Ghana should continue to rely on this import-heavy model or pivot towards boosting domestic textile production.
The environmental cost of secondhand clothing is staggering. Accra’s landfills are overwhelmed with discarded textiles, many of which are made from synthetic materials that do not biodegrade easily. The burden on waste management systems is immense, with authorities struggling to control the influx of textile refuse. Additionally, improperly disposed clothing frequently clogs drainage systems, contributing to the city’s persistent flooding problems during the rainy season. Environmental activists warn that unless stringent policies are enforced to regulate the secondhand trade and improve waste management, Ghana will face an environmental catastrophe of unprecedented proportions.
Beyond environmental concerns, the influx of secondhand clothing has crippled Ghana’s local textile industry. Once a thriving sector, Ghana’s domestic fabric production has suffered due to an inability to compete with cheap imports. Factories have shut down, artisans have been displaced, and traditional Ghanaian textiles such as kente and batik struggle to retain their market share. Advocates argue that by investing in local production and enforcing stricter regulations on imports, Ghana can create jobs, revive its textile industry, and reduce its dependence on foreign waste.
The government has made efforts to address these challenges, but progress remains slow. Policies such as higher import tariffs on used clothing and incentives for local textile manufacturers have been proposed, but enforcement remains inconsistent. Moreover, public awareness about the dangers of textile waste is still limited, with many Ghanaians unaware of the long-term impact of fast fashion imports. The recent fire at Kantamanto has sparked renewed discussions about the need for structural reforms, but tangible action is yet to follow.
International organisations and environmental groups have called for urgent interventions. Initiatives promoting upcycling and sustainable fashion have gained traction, with local designers repurposing secondhand clothing into new creations. However, these efforts require greater support, both from the government and international stakeholders, to scale up and make a lasting impact. Some experts suggest implementing a circular economy approach, where discarded textiles are recycled and reintegrated into production cycles, reducing waste and fostering sustainability. As Ghana stands at a crossroads, it must decide whether to remain a dumping ground for fast fashion waste or take decisive steps towards a more sustainable future. The Kantamanto fire serves as a stark reminder of the consequences of unchecked textile imports and poor waste management. Unless immediate action is taken, the environmental and economic repercussions will continue to mount, further threatening the health of Ghana’s ecosystems and the livelihoods of its people. A shift towards local production, sustainable fashion practices, and robust waste management policies could be the key to breaking free from the cycle of dependency on foreign textile waste, securing a cleaner and more self-sufficient future for the nation.
